On the planet of skincare, there’s a pretty quick pointers of ingredient actives which have substantial scientific proof displaying they are going to effectively allow collagen synthesis contained in the pores and pores and pores and skin, and vitamin C is definitely one in every of them. For that motive, and ensuing from its antioxidant and brightening properties, vitamin C holds an organization place on my personal pointers of favourite skincare actives. I usually attain for L-ascorbic acid primarily based completely serums as my present for this ingredient on account of they’re so broadly accessible, low-cost, and L-AA is a extraordinarily bio-available form of topical vitamin C. Nonetheless it’s not with out its shortcomings – L-AA may be irritating, notably for delicate pores and pores and pores and skin, it’s solely water soluble, and it has a extraordinarily quick shelf life. For that motive, I used to be very excited when Caudalie Polyphenol C15 Anti-Wrinkle Security Serum was launched earlier this 12 months – it incorporates a comparatively new form of vitamin C that doesn’t embody the equal baggage as my L-AA primarily based completely serums (e.g. Paula’s Selection C15 Tremendous Booster, O.S.T. Vitamin C20 Serum). Inside the present day I’ll be speaking about how the Caudalie C15 Serum measured up!
What’s it?
Caudalie Polyphenol C15 Anti-Wrinkle Security Serum ($62) is a concentrated antioxidant serum that ensures to visibly cut back current wrinkles and forestall new wrinkles from forming. This serum furthermore ensures to defend in opposition to free radicals attributable to UV rays and air air air pollution, together with hydrate and plump the pores and pores and pores and skin.
Elements:
Aqua (Water), Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Squalane, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Tocopherol, Ceteareth-20, Palmitoyl Grape Seed Extract, Parfum (Perfume), Glyceryl Stearate SE, Potassium Sorbate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Hyaluronic Acid, Carbomer, Sodium Phytate, Sodium Hydroxide
Listed beneath are the highlights of this technique:
Glycerin
Glycerin is an odorless, colorless, viscous sugar alcohol compound. Its humectant properties make it a preferred magnificence ingredient. Pure glycerin is ready to soak up it’s non-public weight in water over a interval of three days, and has been confirmed in pretty just some evaluation to spice up pores and pores and pores and skin elasticity, moisture, and barrier operate.
Glycerol accelerates restoration of barrier operate in vivo
Fluhr JW1, Gloor M, Lehmann L, Lazzerini S, Dtante F, Berardesca E.
Acta Dermato Venereologica, November 1999
Glycerol totally different corrects faulty pores and pores and pores and skin hydration, elasticity, and barrier operate in aquaporin-3-deficient mice
Mariko Hara, AS Verkman.
Proceedings of the Nationwide Academy of Sciences of america of America, Could/June 2003
Squalane
Squalane is the hydrogenated form of squalene, and in distinction to squalene, squalane is a extraordinarily shelf protected ingredient. The pores and pores and pores and skin naturally produces squalane in our youthful years – it’s one in every of many basic constituents of human sebum. Squalane manufacturing diminishes drastically after the age of 30 although, which might contribute to dry pores and pores and pores and skin for many adults. Squalane is a calmly textured oil, absorbs merely, and possesses moisturizing, antioxidant, and anti-bacterial properties. It may very well be sourced from olives, sugar cane, or shark liver. The squalane on this particular system is sourced from olives.
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
This ingredient is the vitamin C present for this serum. It’s a vitamin C by-product that principally converts into L-ascorbic acid as shortly as a result of it’s penetrated the pores and pores and pores and skin. In its ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate type, it differs from L-ascorbic acid in numerous methods. Firstly, it’s fats soluble, which helps ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate bigger penetrate the pores and pores and pores and skin than water soluble C sources akin to L-AA. Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate will probably be much more protected than L-AA, so it has a for for for much longer shelf life (12-18 months) than L-AA (2 weeks-6 months). Moreover, in distinction to L-AA, which requires a pH of spherical 3.5 to work effectively, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate performs appropriately at any pH between 4.0 and 6.0. It is a important differentiator on account of the low pH of L-AA might set off irritation for many (it’s the rationale for the tingling/burning sensation that always comes with vitamin C serums). On account of ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate seems in formulation with a better pH, it’s rather a lot a lot much less liable to set off irritation.
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate continues to be youthful on the earth of vitamin C sources, so just a few evaluation have been carried out so far. Some early evaluation present ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate to be additional environment nice and bioavailable than L-ascorbic acid, and equally surroundings pleasant as L-AA for combating indicators of photoaging and enabling collagen synthesis. Nonetheless, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate is an expensive ingredient. Moreover, though ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate has constructive anti-aging results in concentrations as little as 3%, one evaluation has confirmed {{{that a}}} focus of 10% or additional is required to grasp important whitening outcomes. By itself, this isn’t a vast concern (L-AA wants a highlight of 10-15% to see whitening outcomes), nonetheless due to the upper value of the ingredient, most formulation that use ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate don’t comprise ample of it to see important spot lightening advantages. As for this serum, if the “C15” contained in the title is one factor to go by, then this technique incorporates 15% of the ingredient (which is ample to see lightening outcomes).
Combating photoaging with percutaneous collagen induction (PDF)
Desmond Fernandes, MB, Massimo Signorini, MD
Clinics in Dermatology, March–April 2008
Advantages of Combos of Vitamin A, C and E Derivatives contained in the Stability of Magnificence Formulations (PDF)
Mirela Donato Gianeti, Lorena Rigo Gaspar, Flávio Bueno de Camargo Júnior, Patrícia Maria Berardo, Gonçalves Maia Campos
Molecules, February 2012
Hyaluronic Acid
Hyaluronic acid (furthermore known as hyaluronan) is a polysaccharide naturally produced contained in the human physique. In a position to sustain 1000 occasions its weight in water, hyaluronan performs an wanted place in wound therapeutic together with sustaining the event and integrity of our pores and pores and pores and skin. Like a great deal of our naturally occurring useful pores and pores and pores and skin parts, we produce rather a lot a lot much less hyaluronic acid as we age. Fortunately, we’re going to topically apply some types of hyaluronic acid and nonetheless buy its hydrating, smoothing, wound therapeutic, and barrier strengthening outcomes.
Primarily based totally on CosDNAthere are a pair low grade attainable irritants or pimples triggers on this technique. Tocopherol (vitamin E) scores a 2 out of 5 as each a possible irritant and pimples set off, and glyceryl stearate SE will get a 3 out of three as a possible pimples set off and a 2 out of 5 as a possible irritant.
Effectivity
Look
Caudalie Polyphenol C15 Anti-Wrinkle Security Serum comes packaged in a inexperienced, glass jar with a dropper dispenser. The glass is thick and durable, and although it’s clearly breakable on account of, appropriately, it’s glass, I’m terribly clumsy, notably in my tiny toilet, and my bottle survived a fall to the underside and by no means decrease than 2 sink dives. It’s attainable I’m merely fortunate.
The product itself is white and practically opaque. The consistency is significantly thicker than water, nonetheless a lot thinner than a typical face lotion.
pH
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate want a pH between 4.0 and 6.0 to operate optimally. Caudalie Polyphenol C15 Anti-Wrinkle Security Serum has a pH of ~5.0.
Scent
Caudalie Polyphenol C15 Anti-Wrinkle Security Serum does comprise perfume, so for a lot of who’re delicate to parfum components, you’ll wish to sit this one out. I’m not delicate to perfume, fortunately. I’m terribly odor pushed nearly about most factors in life, except for my canine, who stinks 100% of the time, nonetheless I nonetheless love her. Not like my canine, Caudalie Polyphenol C15 Anti-Wrinkle Security Serum smells enchantingly like a white floral mix. If I needed to title notes, I’d guess daisy and chrysanthemum.
Utility
I used Caudalie Polyphenol C15 Anti-Wrinkle Security Serum each morning within the midst of the bottle, which lasted me about 5 weeks. I reap the advantages of this serum for Step 5 in my Morning Skincare Routine, so after my hydrating toner (as quickly as I reap the benefits of one), nonetheless prior to my face oil.
To utilize, I squeezed a “dropperful” of serum onto my fingertips and unfold it over my face. The explanation “dropperful” is in quotations is on account of it’s actually not a full dropper’s value of serum that may get sucked into the glass pipette when the most effective is squeezed. It’s nearly positively additional acceptable to say, “one squeeze’s value of serum,” nonetheless with out context, that phrase makes absolutely no sense.
This serum undoubtedly has some hydrating and emollient properties, nonetheless not a lot that it’d act as a standalone moisturizer. Dry skinned of us like myself will rejoice; these with oily pores and pores and pores and skin would possibly uncover that they want rather a lot a lot much less moisturizer when utilizing this serum. The serum absorbs shortly and isn’t greasy. It has a barely cheesy end as shortly as a result of it absorbs, nonetheless it’s completely undetectable as shortly as I’ve utilized the remainder of my routine.
Outcomes
After utilizing Caudalie Polyphenol C15 Anti-Wrinkle Security Serum for a bit over a month, my pores and pores and pores and skin felt persistently clear. I observed some refined smoothing of the nice strains in my eye and lip areas. My pores and pores and pores and skin did seem considerably brighter after the primary 4 weeks, nonetheless not as dramatically on account of it has with utterly totally different L-AA primarily based completely serums thus far, or as visibly on account of it has with utterly totally different, additional extraordinarily environment friendly brightening merchandise akin to AHA therapies. This serum didn’t considerably lighten my current post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation marks contained within the 5 weeks I used it. I expertise absolutely no irritation from utilizing this serum – not a single tingle. These which might be delicate to L-AA serums will definitely admire this. I didn’t expertise any breakouts on account of utilizing Caudalie Polyphenol C15 Anti-Wrinkle Security Serum.
Full, my emotions about this serum are a bit blended. I actually really feel any one who’s solely contained in the anti-wrinkle advantages of a vitamin C serum will adore this technique. It’s terribly good to make the most of, and I like how mild it’s. Its shelf stability is a huge promoting stage, and I furthermore actually admire its moisturizing properties. As soon as you’ve got acquired current strains, this serum does an ideal job plumping the pores and pores and pores and skin to obscure them contained in the quick time interval whereas offering collagen synthesis advantages in the long run. Nonetheless, I’m at present additional contained in the brightening/lightening advantages I get from topically utilized vitamin C, and that’s not this particular serum’s energy. I beloved this Caudalie serum, nonetheless I’ll be sticking with my L-AA primarily based completely formulation for now.
Execs & Cons
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Pores and pores and pores and skin & Tonics Ranking
The place to Purchase
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